How our watches are made?
The first step of the assembly consists of fixing the movement onto the movement holder. This operation is crucial to ensure the stability and proper alignment of the movement. Let's take a look at the details of this phase:
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The movement is carefully placed on the movement holder, a support that facilitates the work and provides a stable base during the assembly process.
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Centering and alignment: it's important to ensure the movement is properly aligned to avoid imbalances or malfunctions.
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Stability check: finally, we make sure the movement is securely fixed, with no play or lateral movement. This step is critical, as an improperly fixed movement can compromise the watch's precision.
This phase of the assembly requires precision, patience, and craftsmanship, as a proper fixing is essential for all subsequent steps.
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In the second phase of the assembly, the dial is placed onto the movement. The dial is the front part of the watch, where the indices are visible. It is essential that it is mounted with extreme precision to ensure a clear and accurate reading of the time.
Let’s go through the steps of this phase:
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Preparation of the dial: first, we select the dial and carefully inspect it to ensure it is free of dust, scratches, or imperfections.
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Alignment of the dial with the movement: the dial is precisely placed over the movement, making sure the pins on the back fit correctly into the fastening holes provided in the movement. It is crucial that the dial is positioned correctly, so the hands can move freely without touching the dial.
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Final check: after securing the dial, a final check is carried out to ensure it is perfectly centered and stable.
This phase requires great care and attention to detail, as the dial is the most visible part of the watch, and any imperfection could compromise both the aesthetics and readability of the watch.
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In the fourth phase, the complete movement is placed into the case. This phase is crucial because the case protects the movement from external agents and ensures its stability within the watch. Let’s go through the key steps:
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Preparation of the case: before inserting the movement, the case is carefully cleaned to remove any dust or impurities, both inside and outside. The gaskets are also checked to ensure water resistance and protection against dust and moisture.
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Alignment of the movement with the case: the movement is placed into the case. It is essential that the movement is perfectly centered and aligned with the hole for the crown.
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Securing the movement into the case: once centered, the movement is locked into the case using a special adapter, which fills the space between the movement and the case. A well-secured movement reduces vibrations and ensures the proper functioning of the mechanism.
This phase requires great attention because the case not only protects the movement but also contributes to the aesthetics and overall sturdiness of the watch.
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In the fifth phase, the crown is placed into the case. The crown is the component used to manually wind the watch and adjust the time. Its correct installation is essential to ensure the functionality and protection of the movement from external agents. Here’s how this phase unfolds:
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Preparation of the stem (or winding shaft): the stem is the metal shaft that connects the crown to the movement. The length of the stem is carefully calculated, as it must allow the crown to fit perfectly into the case without any protrusions or looseness.
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Insertion of the stem into the movement: the stem, with the crown, is inserted into the movement through a small hole on the side of the case. Once inserted, the stem connects to a gear in the movement that allows the crown to control the functions of the watch.
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Securing the crown and checking the seal: once the crown is in place, we check that it is securely fixed and that there is no movement. The crown is equipped with a gasket to ensure water resistance.
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Testing the functionality: finally, the functionality of the crown is tested by rotating it to ensure the winding and time-setting operations are smooth and without any issues. It is also checked that when the crown is pushed in, the mechanism is protected and stable.
This phase requires great attention, as a poorly installed crown could compromise not only the functionality of the watch but also its water resistance and protection from external agents, reducing the overall lifespan of the movement.
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In the sixth phase of assembly, the case is closed using the skeleton back caseback. The caseback is the rear part of the watch that seals the movement inside the case. The glass at the center of the caseback allows the watch’s movement to be observed. This phase is essential to ensure both the protection of the internal mechanism and the final aesthetic appeal. Here are the key steps:
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Preparation of the caseback: the caseback is carefully cleaned, with special attention given to the transparent part to avoid dust or fingerprints, which would be visible from the outside. Additionally, the proper placement of the gasket is checked.
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Aligning the caseback with the case: the caseback is placed against the back of the case, ensuring that the gasket is properly centered and positioned. Perfect alignment is essential to maintain water resistance and protect the movement from dust and moisture.
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Closing the caseback: the caseback is secured to the case using a screw-down closure. The closure must be done with care to avoid excessive pressure that could damage the glass or the gaskets.
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Visual inspection of the movement: finally, we check that the movement is visible without distortions or spots through the skeleton caseback. This transparency allows the user to appreciate the movement in action and admire the internal details of the watch.
A well-mounted skeleton caseback not only ensures the protection of the movement but also enhances the aesthetic experience, allowing the user to observe the inner workings of the watch.
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In this phase, a crucial test is performed to ensure the watch is waterproof and resistant to the ingress of dust and moisture, elements that could compromise the movement’s functionality and longevity. Here's how this phase unfolds:
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Preparation for the test: the completed watch, now with the case closed and seals in place, is prepared for the test. The crown must be fully closed to simulate real-world usage conditions.
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Placement in the pressure chamber: the watch is placed in a special pressure chamber, a device designed to replicate depth conditions, simulating water pressure at various atmospheres.
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Application of pressure and monitoring: once the chamber is closed, pressure is gradually applied. During the test, sensors and precision instruments monitor the watch's behavior, looking for signs of leakage or internal pressure variations. Some tests involve immersion in water, while others are conducted in a dry environment.
If the watch passes the test, it means the seals, caseback, crown, and glass have been correctly installed and provide reliable waterproofing. At this point, the watch is ready to be marketed as waterproof up to the certified depth.
This phase is essential to confirm that the watch is prepared to withstand the humidity and pressure conditions typical of everyday use.
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In the final phase of assembly, the bracelet is mounted.
The stainless steel bracelet not only completes the aesthetic look of the watch but also ensures comfort and security during use. Here are the steps of this phase:
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Preparation of the bracelet and lugs: before mounting the bracelet, we verify that all links are clean and free of defects or scratches. We also check the lugs (the thin bars that connect the bracelet to the case) to ensure they are intact and free from defects.
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Aligning the bracelet with the case: this phase requires precision and attention to detail, as improper alignment could compromise the stability of the bracelet or cause aesthetic damage. It’s important for the bracelet to fit perfectly with the case for a harmonious look.
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Inserting the lugs: once the bracelet is aligned, the lugs are inserted into the corresponding openings in the case and bracelet. A specific tool is used to compress the ends of the lugs and insert them into the case holes, where they expand to securely hold the bracelet in place.
This final step is crucial for completing the watch both aesthetically and functionally. A well-mounted and adjusted bracelet ensures that the watch is not only elegant and balanced but also practical and secure for daily wear.
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The third phase involves assembling the hands onto the movement.
The hands are essential components of the watch, as they indicate the hours, minutes, and seconds. They must be positioned with absolute precision to ensure the proper functioning of the mechanism and a clear reading of the time.
Here are the detailed steps of this phase:
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Preparation of the hands: we select the hands and carefully inspect them to ensure they are free of scratches or distortions.
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Placing the hour hand: the process begins with the hour hand. The first hand is placed onto its corresponding pin, which protrudes from the movement at the center of the dial. It is crucial that the hand is aligned and securely fixed, without any tilting, to avoid it clashing with the other hands.
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Mounting the minute hand: once the hour hand is fixed, we proceed with the minute hand, which is mounted on the next pin, positioned above the hour hand pin.
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Inserting the second hand: finally, the second hand, the thinnest, is placed. This hand is mounted on the outermost axis, above the other two hands. Its installation requires special attention due to its fragility.
Free rotation check: after all the hands are mounted, we perform a final check by adjusting the time to ensure the hands move freely without touching each other. This check is essential to guarantee that the watch maintains its accuracy over time.
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